LEA BOBERG D.D.P. TROUSER BRITISH WOOL CREPE BLACK

24AW에 데뷔한 비교적 새로운 모델입니다. Lea가 매우 중요하게 여기는 DP TROUSERS를 기반으로 한 웨이스트 드로코드 방식의 릴랙스 팬츠입니다. DP TROUSERS가 셋업으로 오더되었음에도 실제 매장에서는 팬츠 단품 판매가 많았다는 점에서 착안해 개발한 모델입니다. DP TROUSERS와 매우 유사한 피팅이지만 허리는 조금 더 크게 설정되어 있습니다. 깊은 플리츠를 더욱 살리기 위해 허리를 크게 설정했으며, 드로코드를 단단히 조여 착용하도록 의도해 설계했습니다. 허리를 다소 크게 착용함으로써 패턴 설계만으로는 표현하기 어려운 허리 주변의 독특한 볼륨감을 만들어냅니다. Lea의 설명에 따르면, 1980년대 Yohji Yamamoto가 남성적인 피팅을 표현하기 위해 개발했던 개념에서 착안한 방식이라고 합니다.

24AWにデビューした比較的新しいモデルです。Leaがとても大切にしているDP TROUSERSをベースにした、ウエストドローコード仕様のリラックスパンツです。DP TROUSERSはセットアップとしてオーダーされる一方、実際の店頭ではパンツ単品で販売されるケースが多かったことから開発されたモデルです。フィッティングはDP TROUSERSに非常に近いものの、ウエストはやや大きめに設定されています。深いプリーツをより活かすためにウエストにもゆとりを持たせ、ドローコードをしっかりと絞って穿くことを想定して設計されています。ウエストを少し大きめに着用することで、パターンワークだけでは表現できない独特のボリューム感を生み出しています。Leaによると、1980年代にYohji Yamamotoが男性的なフィッティングを表現するために考案したコンセプトから着想を得たものだそうです。

A relatively new model introduced in AW24, these relaxed trousers are based on the DP TROUSERS, a style that Lea considers particularly important, and feature a drawcord waist. The model was developed in response to the fact that, although the DP TROUSERS were often ordered as part of a suit, many retailers found that the trousers tended to sell particularly well as a standalone piece. The fit is very similar to the DP TROUSERS, but with a slightly more generous waist. To further emphasize the deep pleats, the waist has intentionally been cut larger and is designed to be cinched firmly with the drawcord. Wearing the waist slightly oversized creates a distinctive sense of volume around the waist that cannot be achieved through pattern cutting alone. According to Lea, the concept was inspired by an approach developed by Yohji Yamamoto in the 1980s to create a more masculine fit.

100% Wool
Made in UK